After reading this, you should be able to perform simple molding methods for the linear supports and the supports of the base support. I will talk about additional ways to create foundation walls. Along the way, I'll leave you hints that in any case there will be ways to save money, safety items, or sometimes a link or two, so that you can get more information if you need it.
Line lining formwork. Linear props are a fancy word for lanes that you may have seen under a new house or garage. This is the first basic element in the foundation system that you will need for your project. Linear supports can form a square, circle, arc, or sometimes just a protrusion protruding from the main building that will support the wall of the knee or the retaining wall.
Watch out for some men to participate, as well as the use of wheelbarrows, to pull out the concrete and place it in the supports. Also note that the small squares in the center of the excavation are intended to support the pier, which can later support the column. Concrete is placed and rented from the top of the forms.
Material: foot materials can range from size lumber, such as 2 "x 12" or 2 "x10", to plywood, lumber, or any other wood that you put around to save money. 12 pennies, 10 kopecks and 8 pennies, common lines, pencils, level, ruler or measuring tape, tripod and bubble level. I'll show you how to set it up and use it if you need help. The bubble line level is about $ 2.00 in most appliance stores.
Tools - Long finished pointed spade, short finished square spade, hammers, tamping, 12-pound sledgehammer, tie wire and a box for chalk.
Reinforcement - in most parts of the country, steel reinforcement is required on foundation foundations. It can be continuous 2 - 5 bar or 2 - 6, and this information will be shown on your construction drawings. The dimensions of the reinforcement bars are based on 1/8 "increments of 1". So # 5vbar is 5/8 "thick, 6 bar is 6/8 or thick and so on. D. Bars range from # 3 to ## 24, but they will never see anything more than # 7 in any A typical house. The armature (for short) is available at home centers, at logging companies, and if you have a local steel supplier in your phone book, they can also be supplied. The armature comes with a length of 20 or 30 inches with a 20 inch screen. which are easier to handle and are preferred. You can bend # 3, 4 or 5 in a simple jig from the stacked cement blocks or trailed forklift truck on a pickup.This will require some effort, but they are not so much bending.
Cutting armature can be performed using a demolition saw or a skill saw with a carbide blade, although this is much slower. DRESS SAFETY POINTS AT ALL TIME! Flying debris from the saw blade and sparks can cause serious eye injuries. Watch for sparks. Remember where you work and have a solid foundation in doing this work. Make sure no one stands in the way of debris or sparks.
The armature is installed on the pier support. On many supports there are 2 or 3 solid rods connected to each other to the end for additional strength of the base. Walls can have only vertical rods or vertical and horizontal rods.
Installation: Here is a very interesting part where you really see something done. After you have completed the building line layout, you are ready to begin installing the formwork. Remember that this is not an office or a finished work that will be visible later. It is just a temporary form for fixing the concrete in shape until it dries. When your concrete hardens, YOU WILL GET ALL THE FORMS BACK! While we are here, when you have finished and poured your feet, remove ALL the tree because of the work. Leaving the wood in place and burying it, insects and especially termites will be painted. They just love wet wood. This will be a serious problem later. Take the time to fix it. Start at one corner of your foundation (for now, let's assume it's a rectangle) and start laying out the longest lengths of lumber you should use. Your drawings will tell you whether your base is 20 "wide and 10" deep or 24 "wide and 12" deep and so on. The first number, indicated as 24 "x12", usually means that the base is 24 inches wide and 12 "deep. Typical means is the size used everywhere, without the architect showing another size in a certain place. If your base is 24 "x 12", you will use 2 "x12" x 12 or 10 ”three-dimensional lumber, designated as SPF. (Spruce, Pine, Fir). In different parts of the country, a sample of lumber can be Southern yellow pine, white pine or the other most common and cheapest wood. Remember, this is not structural processing of wood, so there is no reason to buy the highest price for this work. Buy the cheapest!
Okay, so you made your way around the building and find out that the building is not suitable for your lumber lengths. Amazing Say that the building is 42. By grinding your forms on one foot each, you will only get 39 out of 4 10 & # 39; and you need 42. Now you are allowed to cut the pieces to fit the corners. Try to reduce the cut to a minimum to save your lumber for another project. Well, now we have lumber around the foundation. Keeping lumber in place can be done in several ways, and everything is in order.
The formwork can be held in place using wooden planks, steel beds, perforated steel strip or timber spreaders. Steel rates are faster, but expensive to buy. If you can rent a box of 24 or 48, do it, as they will speed up the work very quickly. If you are using wood chisels, you need to buy some 1 x 3 inch lumber for cutting stakes. If your land is very soft or wet, rates can be 30 "-36" in length, if the ground is solid, 24-inch bets will do. Cut a dot on each bet and make a couple of dozen of them to start. Lift your first base shape right under your model line and draw a stick next to it outside! You should be able to delete them later. Now, keeping the form under your line of the layout, move around the board and place another bet on another one complete the entire length of the board below the row line. Make sure your shape matches the layout line of the base. Bring a 16 kopek duplex nail on your lap to hold it while you work. The third form, place it in the inner part of the 2nd board, leaning it against one leg. Attach them together outside! Continue to move along the base until you block the shape for the outer surface of the support, including the corners. Rub everything around. Now run your internal form. Stand on the board at a distance of 24 inches from t. It extends beyond the board and holds it in place with either a 28-inch piece of 1 "x3" scrap containing at least 24 inches between the forms. The building inspector checks this measurement. He / she doesn’t care, a little more, but he / she will fail if it is less than 24 ". Again, work all the way around your legs until you have a full rectangle with a form board, both inside and outside your support.
It is time to start making your forms strong enough to hold the weight of concrete. Starting from one corner, add enough wood fragments, nailing each one when you go on the formwork with 10 mm duplex nails. Steel boards have pre-drilled holes, so you simply insert a nail into the hole and insert it. Continue this until one side is securely fastened. Now stand up inside the forms, observing the minimum width required by your drawings. Install “spreaders” made from scrap lumber on top of the forms to keep them aside and help them to tip over when the concrete is inside. Continue in all footsteps until all forms are nailed and set. NOTE. As you progress through the formwork, using your level and a tripod, make sure that the forms are LEVEL! They are useless if they weave up and down and install the foundation itself, which is almost impossible. If you encounter a stone or other structure, ask your building inspector how he / she wants to see the base formed in this place. They can allow you to attach the reinforcement to the rock, ask to remove a part of the rock to provide a flat surface, and so on. Now install the armature. Just slide the long length under your spreaders, making bends in the corners. Using wire, hang the rods from the spreaders so that the reinforcement is located in the bottom 1/3 of the height of the support. 12 "high stand? Hang bars 3-4" above the ground. This will help provide the strongest base you can make. When all the armature is complete, call inspection and rest.
Placement of concrete - when you pour a large base or foundation, you will most likely buy concrete from a supplier of concrete Redi. They will want to know how many meters you need, what specific strength and what time of day you would like to see on the spot. Offer your information. Order two days before it is needed, and check again the day it is delivered to make sure that there will be no delays. Weather conditions, plant faults and even manpower can sometimes delay truck delivery times. They will get there as close as possible to the hour you requested. BE READY! When it’s not time for a truck to find out that you have a car in a car or you cannot find a shovel. You have the tools and labor. Most companies allow up to 1 hour on site for unloading. After that, you pay additional temporary fees for the truck and driver. It can become expensive! If you are not superhuman and very experienced, do not try to unload 10yds of concrete with only two people. You are more likely to spill more than you use, the concrete will be hard before you finish it, and rushing around can cause injury. Be prepared with enough manpower.
After the concrete has been placed in your forms and roughly broken off to the top of the forms, take a few minutes break. Concrete will begin to install, and if your plans require vertical rods in the foundation for new foundation walls, it is time to install them. All of them should be pre-prepared and laid out roughly where they should go to the foundation. Again, plan ahead. You can “hit” these fixtures in wet concrete by slowly moving them to fill the concrete around the hole you made. In your plans, they will tell you whether the bars will go inside or outside “facing” to the wall or in the center and how far apart they will be. “Inside” and “External” face simply means inside or outside the new. In most cases, bars should be placed 2 inches from your face. In your drawings you will learn this information. Starting at one corner, set one bar at the intersection of the corner, and then measure any measurement that shows the pattern for the centers. ” 32 "in the center (OC). Just measure more than 32" and set the next bar and so on. When you go to the next corner, make sure that one bar is in the corner again. too few.
The next day. Now that you have found muscles that you never knew you had (just a little sore?) It's time to remove all the formwork from your feet. Yes, all this wonderful work you did was just a bunch of piles. Take all the wood from the foundation. Rotting woody underground threads of termites and other unpleasant insects! Preparations completed.
Forms are filled and filled with concrete. Do not play!
Foundation walls: walls can be made of blocks of concrete blocks (masonry or CMU), distributed concrete, pressure treated wood, and today even blocks of expanded polystyrene are available. No matter what type you use, if you have done a good job on your approaches, and they are nice and smooth, the walls will be easy to install. If your foundation is brickwork, your work will be done. Now your mason will place the space on the wall, put the CMU, fill the CMU cells that have fittings, and install straps for the window sill for the house, shed, garage, etc. Make sure that his contract includes all this work and materials. If the foundation is concrete, the concrete contractor will bring all forms with it. Again, make sure that his contract includes all formwork, wall ties, fixtures, windows and other accessories. A homeowner can form and pour a foundation, but this is not a child's play. When renting, installing reinforcement for walls, the actual placement of concrete, the proper use of trucks and, possibly, the use of a concrete pump, everything is best left behind. Concrete is extremely heavy when wet. Improperly designed wall forms can cause formwork to “blow”, which can result in serious injury or death.
The foundations are the main and first building block of your project. Sheds can only sit on 4 solid concrete blocks, but these are bases. They, too, must be durable and level to provide a good base for your shed. Take your time and do it right, and the rest of your building will find it easier to maintain a plumb and level.
Hopefully this has given you a ton of ideas and information about the right and wrong ways to install the support. Whether it is a large or a small project, the theory is the same. Do not waste time reading pictures, always use safety glasses when using power tools or placing concrete.
Pete
Your friendly building inspector
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