I had a white 95 Cherokee, 2.5 L, 5 speed, 2x4 SE with black trim. When I first bought it, I couldn't even handle the traffic! I am not rich in any way, but I can be inventive and mechanical when I need to be. So most of what I did, made myself and / or got the parts cheap or free. I spent 22 months on these projects, studies and trials. They work, and you will see the difference, trust me. Try this at your own risk to people or property. I do not assume any responsibility or liability for anything posted here, including any federal, state, and / or emission laws, warrentees, insurance, and / or safety. These are just ideas that I'm going through.
- “true” intake of cold air. $ 5.50 (From Home Depot) I made it from 3 inch drainpipes. First I removed my entire air box. Then I cut a 3 hole in my wing wall and stuck a tube through my wing over my tire. I have enough space for the air filter because I have a 3-inch overhead lift with tires for spare tires, except that they are 1 inch wider. I stuck on a 90-degree elbow and another short piece. I had to make a bracket to hold it in place so that it would not jump. I also had to redirect my CCV and Charcoal Tank lines. I drilled holes in the rubber elbow, coming off the throttle body, and used a gasket seal to hold them in place.
- High conic filter. ($ 25.00 from Pep Boys) I clamped it on the end of the pipe so that it would sit in my wheel right behind my bumper. I had no problems with rain. However, I do not recommend driving in deep water. (Laughs) If you plan, do not cut the hole and do not hold the cone filter under the hood.
-E-Ram air. ($ 25.00) (Household) I went to the seafood store and bought a 12-inch DelMar Bilge Blower with a diagonal of 12 inches by 24 volts. In my entrance with a switch in my door panel. When I turn the switch over, I get a lot of extra cold air into my consumption. The 2.5-liter engine naturally consumes 86 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) in 5th gear, 65 miles per hour, which means I push 8 pounds on square inch (pounds per square inch) Not bad for a plastic blower (laughs)
($ 38.00 in E-Bay) After the store welded it, I forced them to cut off the rest of my exhaust pipe to reduce some back pressure, I left only 1 "in front of my back tire. I also shortened the pipe, which between the cat and the silencer so that it fits correctly. I sent all sorts of car alarms when I drive (laughs)
-High Flow Universal Cat ($ 80.00 from Pep Boys)
- Charging serpentine belt. ($ 30.00), which did not include A / C, which also eliminated 2 unused pulleys for less parasitic losses. I also removed the entire compressor and hoses for 30 pounds of crop weight. DO NOT WIN A / C by yourself. Any A / C store can give you back freon, then you can remove the compressor.
-Dizor throttle body. (Free) (homemade) I cut it from a 1/2 inch plastic cutting board and used a material with high temperature pads on each side. I also had to put a 7/8 “gasket” under the throttle lever bracket. I used a couple of nuts and washers. Make sure the cable is fully extended or it will work at a high level. A spacer keeps the throttle body cooler.
- 4.0 Throttle Body ($ 42.00 from E-Bay)
- Charging spark plugs. ($ 5.00)
-160 degree thermostat. ($ 5.00) and added Water Wetter. ($ 8.00) The colder your engine, the more power it has. Make sure you warm up your engine for 5 minutes when it has a cold.
- Intake heat shields. (Household) ($ 15.00) I bought a roll of high-temperature cushioning material from Pep Boys and three rolls of 2 pcs. wide aluminum tape from the hardware store. them with several layers of tape. I pushed them between the intake manifold and exhaust manifold to isolate the intake manifold from heat. I fixed them with a clothes hanger, which I pasted between the layers. metal thermal tape to the air filter minus the throttle body. After that, I took a turkey baking tin (1.50 US dollars), smashed it in half, rolled it in half, and connected it to it under my intake manifold. I sat for an hour, stopped, opened the hood and put my hand to the intake manifold.
- Removed the rear bumper and brackets of the factory at 30 pounds and replaced it with a 65-inch diaphragm. Schedule 40 Plastic ABS pipe with end caps that weighs almost nothing. ($ 15.00 from the water supply store) I secured it on the back end with two 3-inch pipe clamps after I painted it black. Call me crazy, but my steel jeep is still stronger than today, with plastic and fiberglass crap.
-Full customization. (US $ 70.00) Cap, rotor, plugs, forks, fuel filter, all liquids, etc.
-When everything ends with everything, disconnect the positive battery cable. Fully turn the ignition key forward and hold it for 30 seconds. Reconnect the positive cable. This will clear the computer's memory. He will be raised high for a minute and then calm down. Now drive “normal” for a couple of days to reset everything so that it can retrain new fashions. (Free)
The total cost is about $ 950.00! Not bad. If you had a professional store, do it all with an indication of the brand name, say thousands! Some people call this the “Ghetto” or “Redneck” mechanics. All I can say is that it works faster now and I still have a savings account. Hang up your spare parts. You may need them to pass the time of testing for smog.
Remember also that less weight = more horsepower and better gas mileage. Everything you can do in class is a big help. Every 100 pounds. You can get rid of 3 extra horsepower. It develops very quickly.
One thing for sure, I can keep up with traffic now!
- Another extra bonus - my MPG went from 12 to 17.
-Download it like a truck
-Put it like a show machine
-Bring him like a NASCAR.
