Looking back at one of my past quarries, it occurred to me that no one was going to write the final article on pool maintenance in terms of pool technology. Water chemistry is a science in itself, but most people in the pool business know that there are two basic chemical tests for pool water, as well as chlorine level and acidity (PH). When a pool man enters the courtyard, he must be prepared to consider three main issues — chemicals, cleaning, and circulation. A lack of chlorine will turn the water into a layer of algae. Lack of proper acid makes chlorine useless. Loss of circulation and lack of sunlight on the surface of the plaster below the water causes the appearance of algae. Everything should be in the right balance. Chemicals, cleaning and circulation (water resistance). Walking in the yard, there are many things to consider. Firstly, this is a kind of security position, because you are in private property. After a while, you will learn everything about your children, their pets, their plants, which should be considered delicate, and any features related to their property system and swimming pools.
What you have to carry in the yard with you in order to do your job is usually an extension pole, a vacuum head, a vacuum hose, a leaf net, and a wall brush. You should also have a chemical test kit and a basket key with a pump for use on sticky plastic covers.
I will go through the whole process, as I did when I was working with equipment in the pool, when I came to the pool - step by step.
When you arrive at the pool, you put your equipment and look at the pool. How much is the problem? How fast will you have to move to safely clear the pool and move on to the next one?
Wind is the enemy of pool technology. Several times a year, the pool will look fabulous, and you can scroll through several small particles and clean the steps of the wall and the floor (towards the drain). Sometimes, after strong winds and / or storms from the rain, you will arrive, and lawn furniture and tree branches will be equipped in the pool. Some have problems with vegetation regularly, created by trees or grubby members of the landscape. You will need to learn how to measure the level of cleanliness that a customer wants. You can do what you can, for a certain amount of time allocated to each pool on your route, but sometimes a pool is a disaster, and you have to run late all week until everyone returns to normal life, at least until until you leave. Below are the steps that I suggest for those who clean the pools for life.
1) It's time to release all baskets for proper circulation. This means that with some pools I need to rinse the filter before and after the vacuum. Usually, although I will come to the pool, empty my skimmer baskets and put them on deck. If there is an automatic cleaner like cleaning, it is better to remove it. Until you finish.
2) Then I need to make sure that the system (circulation) is turned off, and then the pump basket next to the filter is lowered. Lots of old plastic basket covers for pump chopsticks, and you need to use a key basket for the pump. If there is an older pump in the pool, sometimes priming is required to turn on the power again and continue circulation. A small basket or large canister will serve to fill the pump if the hose is not closed. When I turn on the pump again, the pump basket should be filled with water sufficient for the system to work immediately. Then the water will pass through the filter and float into the pool, and when I look at the water circulation, I usually get air bubbles coming from the pool, so he tells me that it is primed and running.
3) I check the pool tile, and if it is covered with debris, I take an extension pole and attach a wall brush, and then gently clean the tiles at the water level once around the entire pool.
4) Then separate the wall brush until it stops, attach the sheet mesh to the extension pole, and first pour out the surface of the water, then I will get what I can remove more leaves and debris from the bottom of my grid.
5) Now I detach the page grid and attach the vacuum head. The vacuum hose should be attached to the top of the vacuum head and immersed in water using the end pole grip resting on the edge of the pool while you are stretching the hose.
6) In some pools there is an actual vacuum port (hole in the wall) for the hose to which it is attached, but with most pools I have to attach the hose to the skimmer suction hole, usually located at the back of the skimmer under the basket. The hose must be filled with water, almost immersed in water, as the suction air will kill the prime in the pump. I usually suck water through the hose until it almost reaches the end, then submerge the hose and attach it to the skimmer.
7) Now I have to go back to the handle of the extension cord, pick it up and vacuum the bottom of the pool. In most pools, I like to start from the shallow end and work towards the deep end. With small pools that are needed by everyone, with a middle pool, one vacuum at the shallow end, in the middle from the sides, and then the shallow end from this end of the pool, traveling in a circle around the pool. Each time you push the vacuum head forward, then turn, retreat in another row, then step to the side, push forward, turn your head, then retreat, then perform the step again. After some time, you can only judge how far to advance, in order to align the line in the dirt at the bottom with the width of the vacuum head. At this point, you can evacuate the pool in the dark, without missing anything and leaving a strip of dirt in the pool. This is like mowing the lawn. The outer wheels of the lawnmower overlap slightly to make sure you have excellent coverage. Similarly, a vacuum head is used.
8) By now, the entire bottom has been cleaned, the tiles are clean, and there are no debris in the pool. It remains only to clean the dust on the walls and stairs. It's time to turn off the vacuum head, drill my hose and reattach the wall brush. clean the walls (from the tile down) and steps, making sure that you cover everything that the vacuum cleaner did not get. Cleaning at the edge of skimmers, steps and stairs is important. Always try to clean all the tops and front edges of the steps, as the algae will start there faster. Be careful with any area of the pool that is often in the shade, as this is also the place where the algae will begin.
9) Remove the wall brush and get ready equipment for leaving the yard (folding the hose and assembling the vacuum head, wall brush and mesh connected to the pole) and go back to the pump and filter area.
10) Turn off the circulation and empty the pump basket again. Wash the filter. If the filter is DE (diatomaceous earth), the handle will usually be in the locked position; if it is a sand filter, it will be in an upright position. Place the knob in the back flush position and turn on the circulation. Let it run for a full minute. If a lot of dirt comes out, you will need to miss a couple of minutes, but be careful that you do not lower the water level in the pool too much. In addition, if there is sand coming from the backwash hose, it usually means that the side section is broken and your pool filter needs to be repaired. Turn on the circulation and look at the dirt in the pool. If it is clear and the circulation has returned, it has returned to its original state. If this is a DE filter, then you need to recharge the DE. Use a coffee-sized container of ten to fill the filter with DE, and pour it into the skimmer while it is working, carefully wiping the excess with water and your hand. Make sure that most of the DE goes down, and then brush the rest with your hand. If there is a sweep in the pool, it should be replaced now.
11) The next step, when you have finished washing your back completely, is the last thing you do when you are preparing for departure. Check the chemicals. Use your chemical kit for testing. Usually it is two or three parts. The average pool man uses 2 parts using OTO and Phenol Red reagents (test chemicals).
A) OTO for acidity, and phenolic red for chlorine level. The chlorine level should be between 2.5 and 3.0. If it is a good light yellow, it is good. Dark yellow can be up to 5.0. This is not harmful to people, but the health department pool inspector closes the pool until it falls. If it looks orange or red, it is too high and you need to add water, turn on an aerator, or add any chemical, such as algae, until the chlorine level reaches a normal level before anyone gets into pool. Most medium pools require only one tablet of chlorine per week during the winter and at least two tablets per week in the summer. I am in Phoenix, Arizona, where there is a lot of sunshine, so chlorine disperses faster than in cooler climates.
B) The Phenol Red test must be between 7.2 and 7.6. At 8.0 or higher, you must add at least one quadruple of acid to the pool (acid has instructions printed on it, usually about how many quarts are needed for the number of gallons of water contained in the pool.) And leave circulation for not less than an hour until you add it and immediately thereafter to avoid staining the plaster.
12). The last step is to check and make sure everything is fine before you leave. Ensure the backwash valve is in the correct position. Make sure your equipment is all together and out. If the circulation should start on the timer instead of the constant one, it must be returned to the timer position so that it starts when the timer is set. IF you add acid, even if there is a timer, you should let it work for at least an hour, most customers may be asked to turn it off and return to timer mode after an hour, but if nobody is at home, you should leave the circulation until until the timer turns it off during the next spin.
Leave the courtyard, check the gate and gate, get in the truck and go to the next pool.
