In this article we will make a bowl that leaves the bark or natural edge of a tree, exposed on the edge of the bowl. We will talk about tools for use and the different types of wood and installation methods, as well as some desired results.
The first step is to choose a tree view that you would like to work with, and which will be very different from accessibility and your location. I like working with a green tree because it becomes light (easily cut). When you turn bowls with natural edges, the surface is uneven, and green wood is easier to work with. On some species, the bark will remain dense in relation to the wood during the drying process, and on other species the bark will be loosened from the wood during drying.
I will give you two examples of the types of wood I work with; First Oregon Myrtle Wood (Umbellularia californica), this forest is easy to work when it is green, and the bark will remain tight to the tree when it is dried. During drying, a slight deformation will occur. Myrtle Wood Grain changes direction through a bowl. When the wood is dry, it promises to be tough and hard. Large leaf glue (Acer macrophyllum) is the second type, when it is green and soft and easy to work, the bark will not remain on the tree, removing the bark and leaving the naked cambium, it has a very beautiful appearance. Wood also hardens during drying, and very little deformation. Do not be afraid, experiment with a tree from your area, each species will have a unique color and texture.
You will need a piece of wood about 4-6 inches thick with bark. If you have a large magazine, you can see the top of the magazine or a smaller magazine, you can split the magazine in half. The idea is to have a piece of wood that has a rough dome shape. You cut the bowl through the top, leaving the edge of the bark around the bowl. Here is a natural edge.
You will need to make the tree almost round to begin. To get a circle, cut a circle of plywood of the desired diameter and insert a screw into the center to attach it to the log. Using a circle of plywood as a guide, cut roundwood. I use a 12 inch re-saw if you do not have a band saw using a chainsaw, and carefully cut the corners, making at least an octagon. Remove the plywood circle, be sure and watch the center, insert the awl into the screw hole and make it larger so that it is easy to see.
Attach the face with a plate about 6 inches in diameter to the top of the tree (side of the bark), using the hole forming a circle of the wooden circle to center the front panel. You will find that the faceplate is at an odd angle or maybe not, try to maintain the level of the faceplate and the faceplate above the tree does not tighten the screws, because you bend the faceplate. Use large screws that are at least 2 inches long; this area of the bowl will be removed, so large screw holes will not be visible. Align the faceplate on an uneven surface, and then attach the faceplate to the oak.
The sides of the bowl will be higher and lower on opposite sides, and this is good, which gives the cup a unique look. Be careful when turning this uneven shape. Watch the top of the bowl, while you turn there, there will be a ghost created when the tree is not steeper, it's easier to see than your cutting point, learn to watch both.
Article 2; we will continue to use the faceplate, tail rod with a 60 degree cone, chuck, notch and tool recess. The drying of the green tree will be discussed.
Now you are ready to start using your wood cutting tools; You will need a gouge, a bowl gouge and a scraper. Rotation of the Natural Edge Bowl and wood drying will be the subject of my next article.
